Abilene, Kansas to Topeka, Kansas

WOW!!! Whoever says or thinks that Kansas is flat has obviously not spent any time traveling in this part of the state! Today we traveled for 106 miles of truly relentless (merciless) "roller coaster" hills! Unbelievably scenic, but this was a really, really difficult ride.

(It is funny how "scenic" and "difficult" are adjectives that commonly link together, at least in the context of bicycle travel!)

Yesterday was a great rest day in Abilene. I did go to the Eisenhower museum, and that was well worth the trip. Eisenhower grew up, from probably the age of 3 years, to high school graduation, in Abilene, Kansas. I learned quite a lot there, both about the times and about the man. I found myself intrigued with his early and military years, more than with the Presidential years. I am left with the feeling that he was a genuinely good human being. He was someone, it seems, who would quietly, but powerfully, simply do the right thing. He was an intelligent and wise man, with principles also. He may not have been the most showy, or eloquent, of his generation of statesmen, but he was a guy who just knew what was right, and did it. When General Patton refused to see the death camps, because he thought that it might make him sick, General Eisenhower went to see them himself. As he stated, he wanted to be able to be a true and direct eyewitness himself, lest anyone later allege that the Holocaust was only a lie or propaganda.

If he was alive, I would have a beer with Eisenhower. I would have a beer with Jimmy Carter, also. I wouldn't have a beer with anyone else in Washington.

Michel got a haircut yesterday, declining on the Eisenhower museum. Craig got a haircut also. They both look distinguished now. I don't. (Now there's a surprise!)

Back to today's ride, this was truly a challenge. We did not get any of the predicted intermittent thunderstorms, happily enough, but that statement is the sum total of our good luck with today's ride. We had remarkable heat, humidity, and a relentless headwind constantly in our faces. What I found most demanding was the equally relentless roller coaster hills. I remember well when Bill Pearson and I saw similar topography, back in our 2007 "Border Raiders" ride. There was then a road in southwestern Iowa that had, as I recall, 90 hills in 30 miles. I believe the local people called that section of road the "serpent's back". We had that today, all the way between Abilene and Topeka. The wind in our faces made it extra tough. We did over 6,000 ft. of total climbing today.

In that regard, I really have to express gratitude to the good people of this part of the state of Kansas. They have so many American flags out flying. All day long, all I had to do was to look for the ubiquitous American flag, as I proceeded on my way. I was never in doubt of my correct route, as the folks here managed to arrange it so that the flags always pointed directly away from where my bike should be heading. Even when the road took a curve or turn, those flags were always kept pointing perfectly opposite to my direction of travel. I wonder how they do that.

We still had fun. At one point this morning, I was riding in a group of five. There was Bill, Craig, Chris, Doug, and me. We went by a field where there was a small group of five cows, all looking at us, and all very close to the road. What ensued was spontaneous (and enthusiastic) mooing sounds made from all five of us! None of us, all of whom may be arguably considered responsible and mature adults, seemed to think that making mooing noises at cows would be inappropriate or unusual. (Bill make the best sounds.) None of the cows seemed impressed, although I was able to see that one of the cows was a bit annoyed. She didn't comment, probably out of her politeness, but she did look very annoyed.

By the time I made it to the 91 mile mark today, my legs were largely functioning like rubber. I stopped at a gas station. I bought there a candy bar and a Gatoraide. Those were consumed while sitting on a curb at the site. I took the time then to also re-think my life. After ten minutes or so, I felt marginally refreshed. Getting back on the bike however, my legs informed me that they were far from refreshed. The last 15 miles were more than slow.

Topeka, Kansas, today, St. Joseph, Missouri, tomorrow. Another state line! (Tomorrow will be an 85 mile ride and, I am certain, more of these roller coaster hills!)